Zoom. I almost can’t be bothered

Posted by Nicky Richmond on September 24, 2012 in ★★☆☆☆, food | Leave a comment

I’ve eaten here about a million times, because it’s round the corner from my office and because it never seems to change.

The decor is simple; white painted walls, bare, dark wood tables and bold prints. They won’t win a prize for design. The tables are very close together; they pack you in and it isn’t a place to linger – at least not at lunchtime.

I’ve worked in the area for about 6 years now and I don’t think there have been more than a handful of changes to the menu. That’s not necessarily a bad thing.

And the menu isn’t the most exciting one you will see in Marylebone by a long stretch; especially as it’s almost sandwiched between L’Autre Pied and Roganic, but it does have variety and the food is consistent and competent.

It’s run by a rather excitable Israeli woman, who presides over it in a borderline-hysterical manner. The staff are all regulars and this is, in a neighbourhood of destination restaurants, a place for locals.

You wouldn’t travel to get here, or at least I wouldn’t, but if you’re in the area and want a reasonable meal it isn’t a bad choice.

There are about a dozen starters, from seafood salad to a copy of Peter Gordon’s classic scallop dish with sweet chilli and safe choices like grilled asparagus with crumbled egg, Parmesan and balsamic. I usually go for the seafood salad, which comes piled up with seafood and a little bit drowned in Thai-style dressing.

Main courses include chicken Caesar salad; beef burger and fries; cod and mash. Some things are slightly more exciting than that. Steaks and pasta always feature. The portions are generous too.

This is not modish cooking. This is somewhere I go when I take new clients and don’t want the food to be the main topic of conversation.

And the clientele is surprisingly well-heeled, given the low-key surroundings. Lots of business people and a smattering of ladies who lunch.

There’s something for everyone. I’ve never actually had a bad meal there and it’s reasonable value for money, given the location.

I don’t really come here for the wine list but it’s adequate.

Like this review, this is a restaurant which is safe, sensible and not very exciting.