Category Archives: ★★★★★

August 19

Hedone. He done good. Very good.

It’s rare that I go back and update my reviews but it has been known, especially where the restaurant has changed so much that I would be worried that someone would rely on the review and have a bad experience.  

February 22

St John. It’s the daddy.

We’d escaped to the Beckford Arms at the weekend,  a gastropub with rooms, deep in the heart of the West Country. Despite being run by boys who look like they should be in a Boden catalogue, it’s well worth a visit.

February 07

Pied à Terre. Fitzrovia fine dining for fans of finesse.

We’d booked to go to Atelier de Joel Robuchon as a birthday treat for J, son of C. I ask whether J, whose taste in food tends towards the adventurous, might not prefer something a little more down with the kids but I am told that I do not know what I am talking about. As it […]

January 06

Eleven Madison Park. Fine dining, alive and well.

Have I eaten in a morgue? Google the death of fine dining and you’ll see a plethora of articles telling us it’s all over. The most recent funeral oration is that given by Jay Rayner, in the Guardian, where he refers  to a survey which states that 70% of diners have turned against fine dining, linking to a headline in The […]

November 30

Frantzén, Stockholm. Brain food.

I will see if you can come in, says Lurch, at the door, formal and forbidding in his dark, heavy overcoat and bowler hat. We are ten minutes early and are left standing out in the cold. More like a speakeasy than a restaurant, this is not the sort of warm welcome we might have […]

November 08

Maison Troigros Part I : The Hotel

I had wanted to stay in one of the  Grand-Design-like futuristic pods at  Les Cadoles, part of the Troigros empire, not half an hour away from the restaurant. But after the Fishermen’s Huts in Whitstable I was pushing my luck. We didn’t notice the large dent on the car door, nor the big scrape,  or rather C […]

October 01

Barrafina, WC2. Smoking.

Regular readers will know that I don’t queue. I hate the whole no reservations thing, there for the convenience of the restaurant rather than the restaurant- goer. Not usually aimed at my demographic, I find that life goes on fairly well without having to stand around in a bar area for the chance of a […]

September 25

Le Gavroche. Gorgeousness.

I’ve got history with Le Gavroche. Not only the setting for my first grown-up lunch as a newly-qualified lawyer it has also been a concluding dinner to a rather torrid but doomed romance; a poignant post-wedding dinner, with my late father (who had soufflé for starter and dessert), a slightly disappointing meal out with C […]

July 26

Mayfields. Heaven in Hackney.

It’s a long way from anywhere that isn’t in Hackney, this restaurant. Fortunately, I was most of the way there, as I’d had to go and sit in a design studio in Shoreditch, for most of the afternoon, finishing off a pitch document.After proof-reading for four hours, I felt that I deserved. The taxi driver […]

January 31

Per Se. Of itself.

Per Se? It’s Latin, obviously. Meaning by itself or of itself. You knew that. I’m trying to work out whether I really did. Of itself. Like nothing else. They are, of course, talking about the food. Americans. They like to sell. And here, I’m buying it. Per Se is a legend. Three Michelin stars and […]