Category Archives: ★★★★★

Naoe. Not for the faint-hearted.

We had to get down to Brickell Key. It’s a man-made island off the south-east corner of Miami. According to Wikipedia, it was created by Henry Flagler, who dug a nine-foot channel at the mouth of the Miami and created two small islands. Every industrialist needs a couple of islands, don’t you think? And it’s like Canary […]

Dinner. Deceptively simple.

Do you know, I haven’t been to the Fat Duck in Bray. I know. Ridiculous isn’t it? Except that I don’t really fancy all that food-as-entertainment chemistry lesson cleverness.  And not to mention that I haven’t been able to get a reservation yet. And I had trouble getting in here as well. It was only due to the […]

Barrafina. Simple. Perfect.

I was happy that I had finally made it after months of near misses. Greeted by a plate of crispy deep-fried prawns, the recruitment consultant whose guest I was, had chosen wisely. They were incredibly fresh. I’m glad that I hadn’t noticed them earlier, opposite, in the iced display. They were so fresh that they […]

Dabbous. Round 2

They don’t need a sell-by date Even saying the words “round 2” will irritate some people. It would irritate me. It’s still incredibly hard to get a table here: partly due to the size – I guess around 35 covers – but mostly due to the quality of the cooking, which is unlike anything else in […]

Bubbledogs&. Words almost fail me

Lovely lovely Twitter. On my way back from a grim trip up North I was skimming through Twitter and noticed that there was a place available at Bubbledogs& Kitchen Table that evening on short notice. Needing a bit of escape, I jumped at it. Whilst I’d known it was much heralded and that it was […]

For grown-ups. Hélène Darroze, at The Connaught

Really, I didn’t need nine courses.  It was sheer piggery.  I could have had six courses and really, I should have done, but you know how it is and to use the famous quote, I can resist everything except temptation.