Category Archives: ★★★★☆

November 25

The Double Red Duke, Clanfield.

I’d almost come in summer as part of a little Cotswolds foray, before the glowing reviews, (look at me, ahead of the curve), but had to cancel, on account of having overestimated how much my stomach could actually absorb over the space of two days. Turns out that there is a limit. Even for me. […]

February 28

Eccentric elegance. Sybaritic sustainability. Worton.

The first time I came across Worton, I didn’t get it. A cold winter’s morning trudging round a few barren vegetable beds and empty greenhouses wasn’t really doing it for me. I don’t know what made me go back, but it was summer the next time I went to Worton. And by then it was […]

July 25

Bonhams. [CLOSED]

Did you know there was a restaurant in Bonhams Auction House in the West End? It’s been open since the end of 2014 and already holds a Michelin star. Not bad going for the young chef, Tom Kemble, in charge of his own restaurant for the first time. Kemble has worked at the legendary Faviken […]

June 02

Loch Bay and other stories. The Isle of Skye.

You may ask yourself, how did I get here? Well, quite easily really; a flight to Inverness and then a three-hour drive through some of the most magnificent scenery I have ever seen. Like all of the proverbial best-laid, it didn’t go quite to plan. Booking The Three Chimneys on the strength of its reputation […]

May 20

Something for the weekend? The joy of Bristol’s bistros.

In an effort to spread my dining net further afield than my two usual stamping grounds, central London and South Oxfordshire,  I decided to go west, specifically to Bristol and even more specifically, the Clifton part of Bristol. I think that Bristol may now be the second food city of the UK and it is […]

May 02

A Jewel in The Crown at Burchetts Green.

At the weekends I am often to be found in south Oxfordshire, supposedly relaxing and cooking wholesome food from scratch, hoping to justify my ever-expanding collection of cookbooks. My inner restaurant addict is having none of that.

March 25

Noble Rot. An affair to remember.

On entering, there is triggered a dim and distant memory of a rather louche afternoon spent here some time ago, in the entertaining company of a rather reprobate lawyer. This was before we all became slaves to modern technology and when you could just go AWOL for the afternoon, without someone thinking you were dead […]

March 03

Sartoria. Old dog new tricks.

Unless it has been shoved into a quiet corner, it seems that the tailor’s dummy has been done for in the refurb; that tailor’s dummy which sat in the heart of the restaurant, letting you know that you were in the middle of the the hand-made garment district, as if the Savile Row address didn’t offer enough of […]

January 23

Lurra lurra love. Or, what a cow.

Many years ago, when I was younger and had more energy, I used to swim every morning before work, at the public baths in Seymour Place. My daily companions were a group of elderly  women who gathered there every morning, rain or shine, daily swim followed by daily gossip. I’ve been thinking about reinstating that habit, as my daily […]

January 01

Les 110 de Taillevent. Bank on it.

An accomplished brasserie with sophisticated food, mainly classics, executed to a high standard for the price point.