Category Archives: ★★☆☆☆

The House of Ho. Ho ho, so so .

House of Ho. In Soho. Ho ho ho. Even the taxi driver laughed. This is the brainchild of Bobby Chinn, restaurateur, who already has two restaurants in Vietnam. According to his website, Bobby’s restaurant mixes French technique, Californian sensibility, a pinch of Middle Eastern spices and a touch of South East Asia’s flavours. It says […]

January 02

Kai Mayfair. Cry, wallet.

  It’s got lots of awards, has Kai. Not only a Michelin star, but, according to its website, it was the highest ranked Chinese restaurant in the Sunday Times Food List 2012, Best Chinese restaurant in London in the Hardens Guide, Best Chinese restaurant in something called “Zagat survey” though it doesn’t say when, or what […]

Not smokin’ at Smokehouse.

I had heard lots of great things about this, before I actually found out where it was. And when I did,  I was a little surprised. I had imagined that it was going to be in the more gritty, happening part of Islington. I used to know its predecessor very well. It was at the end of a […]

Zafferano. Z-lister.

I’d been here in a former life. When this was a great restaurant. When Giorgio Locatelli used to be the chef. When they had a special truffle menu and even the dessert had truffles in it. I remember it well. I will remember very little of this meal, other than that it was overpriced and […]

Il Baretto – Bland in Blandford Street

I’d been up till two am the night before, discussing the merits of good lighting with Hugh, my new BFF and the man who is going to help make my house look mid-Century-modern-fabulous, so I really hadn’t planned on being sociable, especially not with clients. I’d been to the opening party for a new development […]

Maxelâ. Stick to the steak.

We’d booked. There was no need. I’d dragged myself off my sickbed to go out to eat. I was fed up with the view from my bedroom window, but I didn’t want to do or eat anything too challenging. I know. Shocker. I’d read Marina O’Loughlin’s review at the weekend and I thought that a […]

Tonkotsu. That is all there is.

I was in the market for noodles. I’d had a ramen epiphany earlier in the week, and I just had to go back and try again. And please don’t tell me that you have been to Wagamama and don’t like their big soup-bowl noodles. I’m with you. Neither do I. There are a few similarities […]

Thomas Cubitt.

Because I clearly need to learn how to make yet more fattening food, my kind and thoughtful friend E decided that it was essential that I go on a Peggy Porschen cupcake-making course for my birthday treat. We had, mistakenly, both thought that it would be a day of novices playing around with cake, interspersed with quite […]

Zoom. I almost can’t be bothered

I’ve eaten here about a million times, because it’s round the corner from my office and because it never seems to change.

March 21

Mishkin – give it a miss.

Look, I know I’m  getting on a bit and I do  like a quiet life, but I’m not entirely unreasonable and  know there are some people who like to shout a bit over dinner – hey, I like a bit of a shout myself sometimes but really, this was beyond endurance.