Category Archives: food

May 20

Something for the weekend? The joy of Bristol’s bistros.

In an effort to spread my dining net further afield than my two usual stamping grounds, central London and South Oxfordshire,  I decided to go west, specifically to Bristol and even more specifically, the Clifton part of Bristol. I think that Bristol may now be the second food city of the UK and it is […]

May 13

Coya. Peruvian/Japanese Roka-style mashup.

I’d tried to get into my standby, Roka Mayfair and the voice-without-warmth on their reception told that I might be able to get a walk-in, if I was lucky. It seems that even if you go somewhere at least once a week and you and your colleagues take clients all the time, well, they still […]

April 13

45 Jermyn Street. The Fountain Room gets a facelift.

I once bunked off a school outing to that London. We were meant to be seeing the Treasures of Tutankhamun at the British Museum. My partner-in-crime Jacques, so much more sophisticated, not to mention three years older,  took one look at the snaking queue and suggested hot chocolate and an ice-cream sundae at Fortnums. I’d never […]

March 25

Noble Rot. An affair to remember.

On entering, there is triggered a dim and distant memory of a rather louche afternoon spent here some time ago, in the entertaining company of a rather reprobate lawyer. This was before we all became slaves to modern technology and when you could just go AWOL for the afternoon, without someone thinking you were dead […]

March 10

Chutney Mary: the makeover.

My first impression is that they have spent a small fortune on the fit-out and my second is that I want to stay in the bar. Chutney Mary is the pimped-up reincarnation of the original restaurant of the same name which, until very recently plied its trade at the bottom end of the King’s Road. […]

March 03

Sartoria. Old dog new tricks.

Unless it has been shoved into a quiet corner, it seems that the tailor’s dummy has been done for in the refurb; that tailor’s dummy which sat in the heart of the restaurant, letting you know that you were in the middle of the the hand-made garment district, as if the Savile Row address didn’t offer enough of […]

January 20

The Quality Chop House. It’s on my list.

You can’t really write about The Quality Chop House without talking about its history. I was just going to mention that it had been a restaurant since 1869 and leave it at that. Thing is though, as a property lawyer by profession and an historian by education I can’t quite leave it there. So, combining […]

January 01

Les 110 de Taillevent. Bank on it.

An accomplished brasserie with sophisticated food, mainly classics, executed to a high standard for the price point.

December 23

Taking a journey on the Darjeeling Express. Making a difference.

It’s not often that I meet someone who can out-talk me but Asma Khan is that woman. I’m very glad that she is, however,  because I have come to Soho to interview her, during the temporary residency for her erstwhile supper club, The Darjeeling Express, at The Sun and Thirteen Cantons in Soho. I’ve eaten at […]

December 09

Park Chinois. Put on your dancing shoes.

“Park Chinois occupies a niche, and offers a balance to the current club culture. It brings about a rebirth of the Dinner Dance aesthetic, a modern interpretation underpinned by old school values.” Website: Park Chinois One of the more creative of our serial restaurateurs,  Alan Yau has for this, his latest venture, chosen to target the much-moneyed Mayfair […]