Category Archives: food

May 13

Coya. Peruvian/Japanese Roka-style mashup.

I’d tried to get into my standby, Roka Mayfair and the voice-without-warmth on their reception told that I might be able to get a walk-in, if I was lucky. It seems that even if you go somewhere at least once a week and you and your colleagues take clients all the time, well, they still […]

April 13

45 Jermyn Street. The Fountain Room gets a facelift.

I once bunked off a school outing to that London. We were meant to be seeing the Treasures of Tutankhamun at the British Museum. My partner-in-crime Jacques, so much more sophisticated, not to mention three years older,  took one look at the snaking queue and suggested hot chocolate and an ice-cream sundae at Fortnums. I’d never […]

March 25

Noble Rot. An affair to remember.

On entering, there is triggered a dim and distant memory of a rather louche afternoon spent here some time ago, in the entertaining company of a rather reprobate lawyer. This was before we all became slaves to modern technology and when you could just go AWOL for the afternoon, without someone thinking you were dead […]

March 10

Chutney Mary: the makeover.

My first impression is that they have spent a small fortune on the fit-out and my second is that I want to stay in the bar. Chutney Mary is the pimped-up reincarnation of the original restaurant of the same name which, until very recently plied its trade at the bottom end of the King’s Road. […]

March 03

Sartoria. Old dog new tricks.

Unless it has been shoved into a quiet corner, it seems that the tailor’s dummy has been done for in the refurb; that tailor’s dummy which sat in the heart of the restaurant, letting you know that you were in the middle of the the hand-made garment district, as if the Savile Row address didn’t offer enough of […]

January 20

The Quality Chop House. It’s on my list.

You can’t really write about The Quality Chop House without talking about its history. I was just going to mention that it had been a restaurant since 1869 and leave it at that. Thing is though, as a property lawyer by profession and an historian by education I can’t quite leave it there. So, combining […]

January 01

Les 110 de Taillevent. Bank on it.

An accomplished brasserie with sophisticated food, mainly classics, executed to a high standard for the price point.

December 23

Taking a journey on the Darjeeling Express. Making a difference.

It’s not often that I meet someone who can out-talk me but Asma Khan is that woman. I’m very glad that she is, however,  because I have come to Soho to interview her, during the temporary residency for her erstwhile supper club, The Darjeeling Express, at The Sun and Thirteen Cantons in Soho. I’ve eaten at […]

December 09

Park Chinois. Put on your dancing shoes.

“Park Chinois occupies a niche, and offers a balance to the current club culture. It brings about a rebirth of the Dinner Dance aesthetic, a modern interpretation underpinned by old school values.” Website: Park Chinois One of the more creative of our serial restaurateurs,  Alan Yau has for this, his latest venture, chosen to target the much-moneyed Mayfair […]

November 26

Sexy Fish. Wear your best trout pout.

In the end, I had to put my splayed fingers on the glass, covering the faces of the paparazzi, their noses pressed to the window. Hoping to catch a glimpse of Rita Ora, I can’t imagine that they were particularly interested in Piers Morgan, sitting a couple of tables away. If you’ve ever been to Las Vegas, you will […]