Tag Archives: avoid

October 17

Shaun Dickens at the Boathouse. Not floating my boat.

I’ve booked and cancelled Shaun Dickens at the Boathouse in Henley on more than one occasion, simultaneously attracted by his stated pedigree and put off by pictures of somewhat overwrought food. It’s quite fussy plating, the like of which will generally have me running for the hills, unless I know that they know what they are doing.  But […]

August 24

Signor Sassi. Dinosaur spotted in Knightsbridge.

It is Friday morning at 10 am. I text my client,  G, as we are meant to be meeting for lunch on the Monday and nothing has been booked yet. Where are we eating and are you booking something? I am worried that we are leaving it too late. I am married to the wrong woman, he says, […]

June 03

Wing Lei. Give it the gold finger.

I’d got it all planned. My male pedicurist/food truck chef had recommended Lotus of Siam, five minutes away from the ode to overshlog that is our hotel, the Wynn, Las Vegas. Covering 250 acres, boutique this is not. Do not ask what I am doing here. For those of you who don’t know, the Wynn […]

January 02

Kai Mayfair. Cry, wallet.

  It’s got lots of awards, has Kai. Not only a Michelin star, but, according to its website, it was the highest ranked Chinese restaurant in the Sunday Times Food List 2012, Best Chinese restaurant in London in the Hardens Guide, Best Chinese restaurant in something called “Zagat survey” though it doesn’t say when, or what […]

August 22

Theo Randall. Playing it safe.

I am predisposed to love Theo Randall because of his chocolate cake recipe. I noticed that it was on the menu. Perversely, I didn’t order it. It was a Friday night and we wanted to avoid rush-hour traffic. You will not be entirely shocked to find out that my Internet browser is set to open […]

Zafferano. Z-lister.

I’d been here in a former life. When this was a great restaurant. When Giorgio Locatelli used to be the chef. When they had a special truffle menu and even the dessert had truffles in it. I remember it well. I will remember very little of this meal, other than that it was overpriced and […]

The Great British. One of those words is accurate.

I had high hopes. I’d heard that there had been a good review in the Indy and I’d gone to have a look on my way to Le Pain Quotidien, the one in North Audley Street, a hop skip and a jump from my office. Not that I would be doing any of those movements […]

Gilpin Lodge. Great hotel, shame about the food.

I was meant to be in India, but things didn’t work out as planned and I still wanted to do something to mark my 50th birthday. The Lake District. Not quite as exotic as I’d hoped but it was unavoidable in the circumstances And we booked L’Enclume for the actual big day but thought we’d […]

Bored at Bar Boulud.

I’ve heard C bang on for years about Boulud in New York and how brilliant it is but I’m always a bit wary of the Ramsay-esque spread of sleb-chefs and so I hadn’t rushed to try it. You get there through a side entrance for the Mandarin Hotel, which is a good thing as it […]

Oh Dear, Danesfield House Part 2

Because we couldn’t get into my first choice, the Hand and Flowers, a hop skip and a jump away from Danesfield House, we decided to try to get into Adam Simmonds’ restaurant.  Even though it has one Michelin star, we could get in without any difficulty on the day of booking.  Given that it probably has less […]