Tag Archives: brasserie

May 28

Antidote, visit no. 2. Upstairs. Winning in the West End

Thwarted by an electricity fault in a planned visit to Duck & Rice, my friend F suggested a trip to Antidote, the little wine bar off Carnaby Street which I was keen to revisit, as I did it all wrong last time, eating in the bar downstairs, with only cheese and charcuterie to keep me company. 

December 21

The Dairy, Clapham. Worth crossing the river for.

For someone who doesn’t do tasting menus as a rule, it’s interesting that I was rather disappointed that C-nails didn’t want to try it. £45 for a seven-course menu selected by the kitchen, said the menu which spoke to me, in that slightly brain-dead last lap before Christmas state of mind. But it was nearly […]

December 10

Le Chalet. On top of the world.

You know that thing, where you can’t decide where to go on holiday for Christmas and there are so many choices and what about Cornwall but there’s all those unused air miles and it would be lovely to go somewhere hot but really it’s double the price at this time of year and then you end […]

December 03

NOW CLOSED : Racine. Paris, the sequel.

Racine. I have no idea if there’s any connection to Jean Racine, the playwright,  but other than both of them being uncompromisingly French, I can’t see what they have in common. In that slightly no-man’s-land bit of Knightsbridge, the section past Harrods but just before Brompton Road, and opposite the V & A, this is a strange place to find a traditional-style bistro […]

November 14

Sally Clarke’s. Posh nosh.

There are cookbooks on a table, as we enter the restaurant. One of them is by Alice Waters – The Art of Simple Food – and I have this cookbook at home. I can wholeheartedly recommend it. It is a seminal work and Alice Waters is a legendary chef. Her restaurant,  Chez Panisse, in Berkeley, California, is […]

October 23

The Palomar. Party time.

I didn’t get to hear the drum thing. It’s the owner’s special party trick; a little percussion medley, using the pots and pans in the galley kitchen, whilst customers perched on their barstools drink shots. Obviously the very thought of having that sort of display going on in front of me brings me out in […]

August 17

Fischer’s. Mitteleuropa in Marylebone.

I am in a quandary over the Austrian theme. Austria, for all its culture is not a place where I feel entirely at home, birthplace of Hitler, rise of modern anti-Semitism and all that and it put me in mind of a book I’ve heard of but not read. It’s called  “Is it good for the Jews”? In searching for […]

July 20

Polpo Notting Hill. Yummy, mummy.

I haven’t been to the original Soho Polpo. Like a foodie version of too posh to push, I’m just too old to stand in line. Not to mention impatient. And even though I am generally to be found right up there on my high horse about the no booking thing, I thought that it might […]

April 12

Antidote. Downstairs : PART 1

It had been a long week and I’d been wanting to escape for a little retail therapy on Regent Street. I’d thought I might be trapped in my office all weekend but the rush-job didn’t materialise and instead of being flat out I was just flat. And ever since my dinner, earlier in the week, […]

March 26

Holborn Dining Room. Middling in Midtown.

The first thing you’ll notice is the suit. It must have been quite a challenge to find an outfit that could hold its own in this glamorous, cavernous room but the maître d’has managed it, with aplomb.