Tag Archives: fine dining

February 07

Pied à Terre. Fitzrovia fine dining for fans of finesse.

We’d booked to go to Atelier de Joel Robuchon as a birthday treat for J, son of C. I ask whether J, whose taste in food tends towards the adventurous, might not prefer something a little more down with the kids but I am told that I do not know what I am talking about. As it […]

January 29

Maze Sushi. Miso-ry in Mayfair.

Let’s go to Roka, says J. It works for the diet and it’s just round the corner. Roka (pronounced Rock-a) has become our local client lunch eatery of choice, in that culinary hotch-potch that is NoMa. What is NoMa, you may ask, unaware that is my pathetic one-woman attempt to turn the outer reaches of north […]

January 22

Fera. The L is silent.

I am in love with Claridges. I think you get to an age where you just can’t resist. It’s all that Art Deco glamour,  the attentive staff and the flattering lighting, not to mention that hit of pure luxe as you walk through the iconic revolving door, flanked by liveried doormen. How to feel special, made flesh.

January 06

Eleven Madison Park. Fine dining, alive and well.

Have I eaten in a morgue? Google the death of fine dining and you’ll see a plethora of articles telling us it’s all over. The most recent funeral oration is that given by Jay Rayner, in the Guardian, where he refers  to a survey which states that 70% of diners have turned against fine dining, linking to a headline in The […]

November 08

Maison Troigros Part I : The Hotel

I had wanted to stay in one of the  Grand-Design-like futuristic pods at  Les Cadoles, part of the Troigros empire, not half an hour away from the restaurant. But after the Fishermen’s Huts in Whitstable I was pushing my luck. We didn’t notice the large dent on the car door, nor the big scrape,  or rather C […]

November 07

Restaurant Gordon Ramsay. No fireworks.

I’d not thought much about Clare Smyth MBE, until Restaurant Gordon Ramsay won the ultimate accolade in The Good Food Guide this year. Ten out of ten. Top marks. But Clare is not a well-known TV chef or cookbook writer and her light has been firmly hidden behind the Ramsay bushel. If you’re wondering what she looks […]

September 25

Le Gavroche. Gorgeousness.

I’ve got history with Le Gavroche. Not only the setting for my first grown-up lunch as a newly-qualified lawyer it has also been a concluding dinner to a rather torrid but doomed romance; a poignant post-wedding dinner, with my late father (who had soufflé for starter and dessert), a slightly disappointing meal out with C […]

August 31

Rasoi. Spice at a price.

There is practically no time when C has refused an invitation to a meal involving curry. He doesn’t like Trishna (uncomfortable chairs, the noise, the fussiness), or Benares (the complexity, the expense) and in this, as in much else, we disagree. Funnily enough, I didn’t mention that there might be fussiness at Rasoi, the brainchild […]

August 11

Waterside Inn, Bray. A stately galleon on the Thames.

I’m not sure if you’re allowed to eat here under the age of 50. Other than Oslo Court, it’s the most oldie-friendly place I’ve been to in some time. I’d tried a number of times to get a reservation and it was only by actually turning up in person that I managed to get in […]

July 02

Marianne. Middling.

When I was a baby lawyer,  I entertained a fantasy that I would do law for about ten years, then open up a little neighbourhood restaurant. That was before I realised how much physical work, not to mention financial risk would be involved and I don’t do risk. Less a liberation from the law and more […]