Tag Archives: formal

August 31

Rasoi. Spice at a price.

There is practically no time when C has refused an invitation to a meal involving curry. He doesn’t like Trishna (uncomfortable chairs, the noise, the fussiness), or Benares (the complexity, the expense) and in this, as in much else, we disagree. Funnily enough, I didn’t mention that there might be fussiness at Rasoi, the brainchild […]

August 11

Waterside Inn, Bray. A stately galleon on the Thames.

I’m not sure if you’re allowed to eat here under the age of 50. Other than Oslo Court, it’s the most oldie-friendly place I’ve been to in some time. I’d tried a number of times to get a reservation and it was only by actually turning up in person that I managed to get in […]

June 27

Marcus. Formerly formal, informally formal.

I used to go to that Marcus Wareing place in the Berkeley Hotel when it was a dead posh gaff, with its dark velvet walls and more waiters than you could shake a stick at, not that I’m in the business of shaking sticks at waiters. It was proper faine daining, with its two glittering […]

May 11

Bright Courtyard. Nicey Nicey, Spicy Pricey.

I’d been having an after-hours manicure in the office, as you do and C was in the market for food. This is C-nails not C-husband. C-nails is that manicurist overlap in the Venn diagram between myself and E, who sometimes appears on these pages and who works in the same building as Bright Courtyard.   Some time ago, […]

March 29

Otto’s. OTT. In a good way.

They had me at the Kir. Regular readers will know that Kir is my aperitif of choice. On the menu, Kirs Royale, Vin blanc, Impériale and Pêche. With these Kirs you are spoiling me. I would never have tried this, had I not read the glowing reviews. And as I walked through the nondescript door, […]

March 09

The Five Fields. It’s complicated.

Below the radar for some time, it’s suddenly on everyone’s wish list. That may be because it’s awfully hard to  get a table. Only 40 covers and not that many sittings, it’s not a last minute sort of place .The chef-owner is the wonderfully-named Taylor Bonnyman, previously chef at Corton, in New York, the executive […]

March 04

Ametsa with Arzak Instruction

I’d really not fancied going to Ametsa. It wasn’t only the name that put me off. The negative reviews didn’t help. Ametsa with Arzak Instruction? What does that even mean? I’d heard of Arzak, the restaurant in San Sebastian. It’s on my bucket list. A look at the Arzak website shows Arzak has a separate arm, called Arzak Instruction, […]

January 31

Per Se. Of itself.

Per Se? It’s Latin, obviously. Meaning by itself or of itself. You knew that. I’m trying to work out whether I really did. Of itself. Like nothing else. They are, of course, talking about the food. Americans. They like to sell. And here, I’m buying it. Per Se is a legend. Three Michelin stars and […]

January 22

Claridges. The Reading Room. Shhh!

Have you ever eaten in the The Foyer and Reading Room at Claridges? Thought not. You’ll have heard of the main restaurant, soon to be occupied by Simon Rogan, whose flagship restaurant at the Midland Hotel in Manchester has undoubtedly transformed that dowdy dowager duchess of an hotel dining room but has also divided the […]

Hélène Darroze at The Connaught. Luxury.

I hate this time of year. People in the real world, i.e. one outside law, are all winding down nicely for booze-sodden lunches, without having to cancel at the last minute or keep their mobile devices somewhere that they can actually feel them. Yanked back to the office after only a starter at Café Murano […]