Tag Archives: French

September 14

Burgundy, reloaded.

PROLOGUE I have form with Burgundy. I’ve been here before, the last visit almost 14 years ago, at the time of my 40th birthday. That particular trip was with a man who turned out not to be The One. It seems no time at all since that memorable birthday lunch at L’Espérance, back in 2002. […]

May 28

Six Portland Road. It’s the real thing.

Foreword: I’ve been told by an eminent QC that I’m losing my touch and am being too nice in my reviews. “I like the ones where you hate it”, he says, “far more entertaining”. I cited in my defence a number of my less than glowing reviews but to no avail. Whilst he was only half […]

May 02

A Jewel in The Crown at Burchetts Green.

At the weekends I am often to be found in south Oxfordshire, supposedly relaxing and cooking wholesome food from scratch, hoping to justify my ever-expanding collection of cookbooks. My inner restaurant addict is having none of that.

January 01

Les 110 de Taillevent. Bank on it.

An accomplished brasserie with sophisticated food, mainly classics, executed to a high standard for the price point.

November 11

NOW CLOSED : Piquet, W1: Piquing my interest in Mr Pickett.

I might as well just give in to my inner OAP. I’m happy to fantasize about a post-work trek across town to Hackney or Peckham Rye but unless the tube is going to deposit me at the mouth of my chosen restaurant,  I’m not going to be schlepping across the darkling plains of E5 or SE15 to eat in […]

February 07

Pied à Terre. Fitzrovia fine dining for fans of finesse.

We’d booked to go to Atelier de Joel Robuchon as a birthday treat for J, son of C. I ask whether J, whose taste in food tends towards the adventurous, might not prefer something a little more down with the kids but I am told that I do not know what I am talking about. As it […]

December 03

NOW CLOSED : Racine. Paris, the sequel.

Racine. I have no idea if there’s any connection to Jean Racine, the playwright,  but other than both of them being uncompromisingly French, I can’t see what they have in common. In that slightly no-man’s-land bit of Knightsbridge, the section past Harrods but just before Brompton Road, and opposite the V & A, this is a strange place to find a traditional-style bistro […]

November 08

Maison Troigros Part I : The Hotel

I had wanted to stay in one of the  Grand-Design-like futuristic pods at  Les Cadoles, part of the Troigros empire, not half an hour away from the restaurant. But after the Fishermen’s Huts in Whitstable I was pushing my luck. We didn’t notice the large dent on the car door, nor the big scrape,  or rather C […]

September 25

Le Gavroche. Gorgeousness.

I’ve got history with Le Gavroche. Not only the setting for my first grown-up lunch as a newly-qualified lawyer it has also been a concluding dinner to a rather torrid but doomed romance; a poignant post-wedding dinner, with my late father (who had soufflé for starter and dessert), a slightly disappointing meal out with C […]

August 11

Waterside Inn, Bray. A stately galleon on the Thames.

I’m not sure if you’re allowed to eat here under the age of 50. Other than Oslo Court, it’s the most oldie-friendly place I’ve been to in some time. I’d tried a number of times to get a reservation and it was only by actually turning up in person that I managed to get in […]