Tag Archives: Michelin

June 20

The Hind’s Head. Heston does homespun.

I was still on holiday, albeit not actually still abroad. There were cupboards to organise, so obviously my thoughts turned to food. And the sun was shining. A country pub, I was thinking, by the river perhaps. And when I say pub I was thinking beer-serving establishment only in the loosest possible sense. A sort of Hand and […]

March 09

The Five Fields. It’s complicated.

Below the radar for some time, it’s suddenly on everyone’s wish list. That may be because it’s awfully hard to  get a table. Only 40 covers and not that many sittings, it’s not a last minute sort of place .The chef-owner is the wonderfully-named Taylor Bonnyman, previously chef at Corton, in New York, the executive […]

March 04

Ametsa with Arzak Instruction

I’d really not fancied going to Ametsa. It wasn’t only the name that put me off. The negative reviews didn’t help. Ametsa with Arzak Instruction? What does that even mean? I’d heard of Arzak, the restaurant in San Sebastian. It’s on my bucket list. A look at the Arzak website shows Arzak has a separate arm, called Arzak Instruction, […]

January 31

Per Se. Of itself.

Per Se? It’s Latin, obviously. Meaning by itself or of itself. You knew that. I’m trying to work out whether I really did. Of itself. Like nothing else. They are, of course, talking about the food. Americans. They like to sell. And here, I’m buying it. Per Se is a legend. Three Michelin stars and […]

Pollen Street Social. Getting your just desserts.

Why haven’t I been here before, says C. It’s the sort of place we like isn’t it? Yes, indeed, it is the sort of place we like. But it’s the sort of place we can rarely get into without planning months in advance, so that when I saw that there was a table free at […]

July 20

Hibiscus. Thank God I liked it.

I confess. I was a bit put off by the rather unattractive spat between Claude Bosi and a hapless would-be blogger and there were so many other places I wanted to try as well. So I’d left it. But it was a Friday, I’d dragged C into London and I felt like a bit of faine […]

Kitchen W8. Classy in Kensington.

Sunday night.  The graveyard slot.  And obviously, because I had bigged it up to C, it was never going to be as good as I’d said. Why does that always happen? I remember dragging my father up from Manchester to try Wings, in New Barnet, in the 80’s (it was a favourite at the time). […]

Nut Tree Inn, Murcott.

I have tried to get in here at least half a dozen times. It’s always at the last minute though and I’ve never been successful. Until last week, when they managed to squeeze us in for an early lunch. I had been expecting something good from the reviews and the local chatter, not to mention […]

Yauatcha. Soho so-so.

  I had a little urge to reacquaint myself with the minority sport that is dim sum. You may have noticed that I’ve been to Royal China (not the Club), on a number of occasions and each time, I’ve waxed lyrical. Unfortunately, my local Royal China does not serve dim sum in the evening.

Orrery. A mechanical device.

Shall we go to The Orrery? Lovely, I hear myself saying. Do we have to?  says my heart. I’ve been here at least five times, but I’ve never booked it myself and given that it’s an obvious choice for a bit of client-related faine daining I wanted to think about why that is.