Tag Archives: Mid-priced

October 17

Shaun Dickens at the Boathouse. Not floating my boat.

I’ve booked and cancelled Shaun Dickens at the Boathouse in Henley on more than one occasion, simultaneously attracted by his stated pedigree and put off by pictures of somewhat overwrought food. It’s quite fussy plating, the like of which will generally have me running for the hills, unless I know that they know what they are doing.  But […]

August 30

Petersham Nurseries Café. A garden at the centre.

Petersham Nurseries. Remember that? Of course you do. You’ll probably be recalling its heyday, under Skye Gyngell, when it had a Michelin star and everyone went on about how expensive it was. I never really fancied it then, I’m not sure why. Perhaps it was the airy-fairiness of it, or the worry that I was going […]

June 10

Ham Yard, Soho.

I have lived in London for more years than I care to remember, but I have never before been to Ham Yard, slap, tickle and bang in the middle of Soho. Ham Yard was placed firmly on the Soho tourist map by the opening of the Ham Yard Hotel, part of the Firmdale Group. I […]

June 03

La Trompette. Top chow in Chiswick

Why are we sitting in this traffic says C, not understanding why we can’t eat somewhere local. It’ll only be about half an hour in the car, I say. Trust me. And anyway, I say, I just need to get out of central London and I want to go somewhere grown up. As we are sitting […]

May 09

NOW CLOSED ……Rex & Mariano, Soho. My boat has come in.

“What do you mean we have to order using an iPad?”, says J, making her mind up in seconds and not in a good way. And the table is only for two hours because we are a party of fewer than five. We get a little “hmmph”  before she realises that the iPad thing brings […]

April 25

Lima Floral. Confusion in Covent Garden.

I was meant to be meeting a lawyer I had got to know on the other side of a messy, drawn-out transaction but she had suffered palpitations and had had to cancel at short notice. No, it was nothing to do with my being on the other side, before you ask.

December 03

NOW CLOSED : Racine. Paris, the sequel.

Racine. I have no idea if there’s any connection to Jean Racine, the playwright,  but other than both of them being uncompromisingly French, I can’t see what they have in common. In that slightly no-man’s-land bit of Knightsbridge, the section past Harrods but just before Brompton Road, and opposite the V & A, this is a strange place to find a traditional-style bistro […]

November 08

Maison Troigros Part I : The Hotel

I had wanted to stay in one of the  Grand-Design-like futuristic pods at  Les Cadoles, part of the Troigros empire, not half an hour away from the restaurant. But after the Fishermen’s Huts in Whitstable I was pushing my luck. We didn’t notice the large dent on the car door, nor the big scrape,  or rather C […]

September 18

Pearl Liang. Pedestrian in Paddington

“It is no surprise that Pearl Liang is one of the busiest restaurants in the area”, boasts their website, which tells us that “Pearl Liang Chinese Oriental Restaurant is a stylish, cosmopolitan, London restaurant located in the heart of Paddington”. Correction: the heart of Paddington Basin, with a captive audience of thousands, where the culinary […]

August 17

Fischer’s. Mitteleuropa in Marylebone.

I am in a quandary over the Austrian theme. Austria, for all its culture is not a place where I feel entirely at home, birthplace of Hitler, rise of modern anti-Semitism and all that and it put me in mind of a book I’ve heard of but not read. It’s called  “Is it good for the Jews”? In searching for […]