December 28

Bouillon Bilk

As those of you who have been bothering to follow my diet-change journey know, I have been trying to eat in a way that is more restrained. This meant going cold turkey (seasonal pun alert) on my restaurant reviewing.  I’d lost my eating-out excitement and my tasting-menu tolerance. I was (and remain) happy to have […]

December 22

Under the influencer? Be honest.

An excellent article in Eater  about viral food advertising (Cronut, anyone?) set me to thinking about so-called “influencers” and the sometimes grey area surrounding “paid for”  posts and blogs. And by paid for, I mean receiving some financial benefit or thing of value, whether directly or otherwise. I set to thinking about the law in […]

November 20

When in Rome. Or not, if you are me.

I’m in Rome for a short break. Until a year ago, I’d have planned all my meals, looked up all the blogs, asked all my foodie friends and have organised my eating down to the last mouthful. I’d probably have had booked a little fine dining, interspersed with a few up-and-coming modern eateries and the […]

Jikoni. Coming in from the cold.

Is that the  Italian? I am asked this question each time I mention I am going to Jikoni. Full disclosure:  I am asked it four times. This puts it into the category of a slight issue.   Try saying it next to “Cecconi”. See?

It’s been a while.

I came across a reference to Anna’s Place this morning. It was a little Scandinavian restaurant in Newington Green, around in the 1980s. It was not a precursor of the Scandi restaurants around today; more a home-cooking, superior comfort-food sort of place. I used to live round the corner but I didn’t go often because […]

And so it starts. Not a restaurant review.

And so it starts: Sunday 30 October. At Le Manoir, for C’s birthday. I ate only two of the four canapés. What have I become?

September 14

Burgundy, reloaded.

PROLOGUE I have form with Burgundy. I’ve been here before, the last visit almost 14 years ago, at the time of my 40th birthday. That particular trip was with a man who turned out not to be The One. It seems no time at all since that memorable birthday lunch at L’Espérance, back in 2002. […]

August 03

Blandford Comptoir.

Did you enjoy it? Asks the waitress, for what,  by this point,  is the third time. I’m not enjoying your service style, I don’t say, even though I’m getting steadily more irritated as the meal progresses.

July 31

Sosharu. Atherton goes further east than the City.

If I were given the power to make the law, rather than just interpret it, I would rule that all toilets had to be in the Japanese style. Features include a heated seat which flips down to welcome you,  strategically-placed jets to wash you down, and a built-in blowdryer to conclude proceedings. It senses when you have finished […]

July 25

Bonhams. [CLOSED]

Did you know there was a restaurant in Bonhams Auction House in the West End? It’s been open since the end of 2014 and already holds a Michelin star. Not bad going for the young chef, Tom Kemble, in charge of his own restaurant for the first time. Kemble has worked at the legendary Faviken […]