April 28

Jikoni. Coming in from the cold.

Is that the  Italian? I am asked this question each time I mention I am going to Jikoni. Full disclosure:  I am asked it four times. This puts it into the category of a slight issue.   Try saying it next to “Cecconi”. See?

It’s been a while.

I came across a reference to Anna’s Place this morning. It was a little Scandinavian restaurant in Newington Green, around in the 1980s. It was not a precursor of the Scandi restaurants around today; more a home-cooking, superior comfort-food sort of place. I used to live round the corner but I didn’t go often because […]

And so it starts. Not a restaurant review.

And so it starts: Sunday 30 October. At Le Manoir, for C’s birthday. I ate only two of the four canapés. What have I become?

September 14

Burgundy, reloaded.

PROLOGUE I have form with Burgundy. I’ve been here before, the last visit almost 14 years ago, at the time of my 40th birthday. That particular trip was with a man who turned out not to be The One. It seems no time at all since that memorable birthday lunch at L’Espérance, back in 2002. […]

August 03

Blandford Comptoir.

Did you enjoy it? Asks the waitress, for what,  by this point,  is the third time. I’m not enjoying your service style, I don’t say, even though I’m getting steadily more irritated as the meal progresses.

July 31

Sosharu. Atherton goes further east than the City.

If I were given the power to make the law, rather than just interpret it, I would rule that all toilets had to be in the Japanese style. Features include a heated seat which flips down to welcome you,  strategically-placed jets to wash you down, and a built-in blowdryer to conclude proceedings. It senses when you have finished […]

July 25

Bonhams. [CLOSED]

Did you know there was a restaurant in Bonhams Auction House in the West End? It’s been open since the end of 2014 and already holds a Michelin star. Not bad going for the young chef, Tom Kemble, in charge of his own restaurant for the first time. Kemble has worked at the legendary Faviken […]

July 07

The Marksman. Right on target.

Post Brexit, I am taking my chances taking C to Hackney to eat. It would have been bad enough had the vote gone with Remain, but less than five days after what was for C pretty much the end of western civilisation, I am playing with fire. And of course it is raining, after what feels like an […]

June 09

Bacco. A mid-town Italian adventure.

“God, the pressure, choosing for you, you have no idea what it’s like,” says M, Head Clerk of an cracking set of barristers’ chambers we use all the time. “Honestly, I’m sure it will be absolutely fine, really”, I say, not sure about any such thing.

June 02

Loch Bay and other stories. The Isle of Skye.

You may ask yourself, how did I get here? Well, quite easily really; a flight to Inverness and then a three-hour drive through some of the most magnificent scenery I have ever seen. Like all of the proverbial best-laid, it didn’t go quite to plan. Booking The Three Chimneys on the strength of its reputation […]